My Story, A Historic Climb: Everest-Lhotse Double

Conquering Everest and Lhotse: A Dream Realized

On May 21, 2024, I stood at the summit of the world’s highest peak, Mount Everest, at 8,848.86 meters. Just hours later, I embarked on another formidable challenge, reaching the top of Mount Lhotse, the fourth highest peak at 8,849 meters, at 12:45 am on May 22, 2024.

This marked the first-ever Double Dual Ascent of these two colossal peaks in a single season.

Accompanied by Pastemba Sherpa and Nima Ungdi Sherpa, this journey was nothing short of extraordinary.

The Birth of an Ambitious Project

The idea of attempting a world record first took root in January 2023, during the frigid winter of Ladakh. It was Mr. Bharath Thammineni who planted the seed of “Project Everest Lhotse Twice.”

His confidence in my abilities sparked a fire within me, even as doubts lingered. Training began in earnest, with plans to acclimatize on Dhaulagiri. However, nature had other plans, and adverse weather conditions forced us to pivot to Everest Base Camp on May 13, with only 15 days left in the climbing season.

The Ascent Begins

After a few days of rest, we aimed for the Everest summit on May 20. Reaching Camp 4 on May 19, we encountered bad weather and strong winds. Deciding to wait a day, we resumed our ascent on the evening of May 20 at 8:45 pm. Almost immediately, I was struck by severe stomach issues, draining my energy. With no time to spare, I pushed onward and reached the summit of Mount Everest at 4:15 am on May 21. The relief was immense—one summit down, three more to go.

The Journey to Lhotse

After a brief rest at Everest Camp 4, we started for Lhotse at 1 am on May 22. By 7:10 am, we reached the summit, marking the halfway point of our mission. However, my body was depleted of fluids and salts due to my stomach condition, making the descent grueling.

Reaching Camp 2, I was nearly out of energy. Resting for a day was not an option as the weather window was closing. Determined, I mixed sugar, salt, and Horlicks in warm water, and slowly made my way back to base camp by 11:45 pm on May 22.

Overcoming Adversity

Upon reaching base camp, many thought the project was over—except Bharath and myself. We refused to let a bad stomach end our mission. After a good night's sleep and a visit to the base camp hospital for medicine, my condition improved. With renewed strength, we started our second ascent on May 24. Reaching Camp 3 by the evening of May 25 and Camp 4 by noon on May 26, we began our final summit push at 6 pm on May 26. By 12:45 am on May 27, we stood atop Mount Everest for the second time in six days. The relief was palpable.

The Final Summit

Descending quickly, we rested briefly at Camp 4 before proceeding to Lhotse. By noon on May 27, we summited Mount Lhotse once more, completing “Project Everest Lhotse Twice” in 6 days, 7 hours, and 31 minutes. Thankful and exhausted, we made our way back to base camp the same day, arriving at 11 pm.

Celebrating Success

The journey was arduous, testing my physical and mental limits. Yet, the successful completion of this project is a testament to human resilience and determination. Celebrations ensued, and I felt a deep gratitude for the support of my team and the unwavering belief of Mr. Bharath Thammineni.

This accomplishment not only sets a new benchmark in mountaineering but also inspires me to continue pushing boundaries and exploring new heights.

Thank you for being a part of this incredible journey.